Frequently Asked Questions
We are happy to answer your lighting questions.
Frequently Asked Lighting Questions
The Lighting Company is a family run firm that has been supplying electrical equipment and lighting for 23 years. Lynne, our chief lighting consultant, knows pretty much all there is to know about choosing the right lighting for any room or situation.
The Lighting Company is always ready to help customers make sure that the lights they are buying from us are exactly right for their needs. We have written down some of the questions we have been asked and the answers we have given, and hope these help you decide on the perfect lighting solution. If you have a question that we have not covered, then please, do not hesitate to contact us at info@lightingcompany.co.uk We are always happy to help and do not worry if your query seems a little strange - we have probably heard it all before!
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
HOW MUCH LIGHT DOES MY ROOM NEED? This is really a matter of personal preference as some people prefer a really bright light whilst others may like to have a more subdued effect. If you are changing the lights in your room consider whether you want more or less light than you already have. It may also be worth considering fitting a dimmer switch so you can control the level of light, but check that the fitting and bulbs you choose can be dimmed. For instance, if you are reading in your sitting room you will want a much brighter light that if you are watching TV.
As a basic guide to determining the level of light you need calculate your room size in square metres and multiply by 25 (for incandescent lamps or conventional bulbs), by 15 (is using halogen bulbs) or by 19 (for fluorescent or low energy bulbs). For example, if your room measures 4m x 5m it has an area of 20 square metres. If you are using conventional bulbs multiply this by 25 giving a total wattage of 500 watts. This is only a rough guide as you may need to have slightly more light in a kitchen and slightly less if it is a bedroom. And do not forget that the correct light level can be achieved by the addition of table lamps, floor lamps, desk lamps etc. which can be turned on when required.
WHAT SIZE CEILING LIGHT SHOULD I CHOOSE? A ceiling light is generally one of the focal points in a room so it is important not to use a light that is too small as this will detract from the look you want to achieve. Use the guidelines below to help you determine the correct size fitting.
Room size smaller than 10 foot x 10 foot use a 17" to 20" diameter/width light.
Room size 12 foot x 12 foot use a 22" to 27" diameter/width light.
Room size 14 foot x 14 foot use a 24" to 32" diameter/width light.
For a room with other dimensions simply add the dimension together and the sum equals the diameter of light you will need. For example if your room is 12 foot by 14 foot you would add 12+14 which equals 26. Your light should be 26" in diameter.
If your room is particularly large/long you may have to consider using 2 ceiling lights to ensure the room looks balanced and that you achieve the level of light needed.
AT WHAT HEIGHT SHOULD I HANG MY CEILING LIGHT? Lights in sitting rooms, bedrooms and hallways should be hung approximately 7 feet above floor level. Please remember that this is only a basic guideline - it is your room, so hang the light fitting at a height you are comfortable with. Another point to consider is that a light will look larger the lower it hangs and smaller if your hang it higher.
The same basic rules apply to hanging lights in entrance halls or foyers, but if you have a double height ceiling over two floor, ideally the light fitting should not hang below the second floor. If you are hanging your light higher to compensate for the two story setting, you may wish to consider adding a couple of inches to the diameter of the fitting you choose to ensure it does not look too small for the setting.
WHAT SIZE LIGHT SHOULD I CHOOSE FOR OVER MY DINING TABLE? We would recommend that a ceiling light over your dining table should be between 1/2 to 2/3 of the width of the table. Go bigger rather than smaller. We have a great selection of pendant lights for over tables and these can be viewed by clicking on the following linkhttp://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/ceiling-lights-c3/pendant-lights-c
AT WHAT HEIGHT OVER MY DINING TABLE SHOULD I HANG MY LIGHT?The basic rule here is that the bottom of your ceiling light should be between 30" and 34" from the top of your table. If your ceiling is taller than 8' then add another 3" for every additional foot.
Another suggestion is to consider having a rise and fall suspension over your dining table so that you can adjust the height of the light as required. The Lighting Company has a great selection of rise and fall lights and you can view these by clicking the link
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/ceiling-lights-c3/rise-and-fall-lights-c10
WHAT IS THE BEST HEIGHT FOR POSITIONING WALL LIGHTS? As a very general rule position your wall lights about 152cms or 60" above floor level. If you are putting wall lights in a long hallway or corridor a general rule of thumb is to position them about 250 to 300cms or between 8' to 10' apart. The top of the wall light should be at eye level so that you are not looking directly into the bulb. Check out The Lighting Company's wall lights by clicking http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/wall-lights-c15
SHOULD I CHOOSE LIGHTS THAT POINT UP OR DOWN?This is largely a matter of personal choice. However there are a few things to consider. Lights that point up reflect most of their light back down off the ceiling and will work best if you have a white or pale coloured ceiling. If you choose lights with glass shades they will allow light through whether they are pointing up or down and clear shades will obviously let more light through that frosted or coloured shades. Consider how much light you need in the room taking into account any other lights (wall lights, floor lamps etc.) that you have in the room.
SHOULD I CHOOSE A FLUSH CEILING LIGHT OR ONE WITH A CHAIN?You need to consider the height of your ceiling as a first step. Many new houses have slightly lower ceiling heights and may require flush or semi-flush lights so you are not constantly ducking or hitting your head on the lights. Always check the maximum height of light that you can accommodate before choosing your lights and check out our technical information which gives the height of all our lights. Lights that have chains can be adjusted by removing links in the chain to ensure the light hangs at the correct height. Quite a lot of lights are now "dual mount" which means that they can be fitted with the chain provided or fitted flush by not using the chain.
MY ELECTRICIAN SAYS I DO NOT HAVE AN EARTH CABLE AND THAT I NEED SPECIAL LIGHTS, WHAT DOES THIS MEAN? Your electrician is quite right, you will need to select what are called double insulated lights (may also be referred to as Class 11 or Class 2 lights). Quite a lot of older properties built before or during the 1960's may not have an adequate earth cable. Double insulated lights have 2 layers of insulation built in to protect the live parts. It is possible to have your house re-wired by your electrician but this can be expensive, so the other solution is to select double insulated light fittings. The Lighting Company has a great choice of double insulated lights. Check out our selection by clicking on these links
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/ceiling-lights-c3/double-insulated-lights-class11-c31
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/wall-lights-c15/double-insulated-wall-lights-c26
DO I NEED SPECIAL LIGHTS IN MY BATHROOM? The answer to this one is probably "YES". Great care must be taken when selecting a bathroom light as all bathroom lighting must conform to the current regulations which are designed with safety in mind - where you have electricity and water there is an increased risk and this is why the regulations are quite specific.
For the purposes of the regulations the bathroom is divided into zones and the light fittings are given a two digit number known as an IP (Ingress Protection) number or classification. The first number of the IP rating indicates the degree of protection against dust particles or solid objects and ranges from 0 for no protection up to 6 for total protection. It is the second number that is of more interest in bathroom lighting as this represents the degree of protection from moisture and ranges from 0 for no protection up to 8 for a light that will be totally submerged in water.
Zone 0 - this is inside the bath or shower tray itself and any light here must be low voltage and rated IPx7 (the x is used here because the degree of dust protection does not apply to bathrooms and any number will be ok). Lights rated IPx7 will provide total protection when immersed in water.
Zone 1 - is above the bath or shower to a height of 2.25 metres above floor level and a light fitting with a minimum of IPx4 is needed here.
Zone 2 - an area stretching to 0.6 metres outside the bath and above the bath or shower if over 2.25 metres. A light fitting of at least IPx4 is needed.
Zone 3 - this is anywhere outside of zones 0, 1, and 2 and there is no stated requirements for an IP rating, but the light should be suitable for the location and provide adequate protection against electric shock.
We have a comprehensive selection of bathroom lighting and in the "Technical Info" for each light we provide details of the IP rating and Zones that relate to that fitting. You can now confidently select your bathroom lights by clicking
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/bathroom-lights-c1
HOW SHOULD I CLEAN MY LIGHT FITTINGS? It may sound obvious but please ensure that the light is switched off and the bulbs have cooled down before doing any cleaning! The brass, metal or painted frames of light fittings should only need a dusting from time to time with a feather duster or soft brush. Brass fittings are often coated with a lacquer to stop tarnishing so please do not use abrasive cleaning products on your fittings. If your brass lights are not coated they will over time develop an attractive rich natural antique patina.
The best way to clean crystal is by using a small amount of mild washing up liquid diluted in water. Use a cotton glove to rub over each crystal with the soapy water and then use a dry glove to dry them. If you are able to remove the crystals for cleaning you can immerse them in the soapy water, rinse with clear water and leave to dry naturally before refitting. Please ensure you make a note of where the crystals go before removing them, otherwise you could end up in real trouble!
If you are lucky enough to have a large crystal chandelier it may be worth buying some special crystal or chandelier cleaner. You can then spray the crystal decorations with the cleaner and leave them to drip dry - place a suitable cloth underneath the light to catch the drips.
I HAVE A HIGH VAULTED CEILING AND CANNOT REACH THE LIGHT TO CHANGE THE BULBS? This can be a problem if you have a large 2 or 3 story entrance hall or stairwell or have high vaulted ceilings in a barn conversion for instance. It is much better to consider the issue before selecting your light fitting so you can avoid the expense of having to buy a scaffold tower or hiring scaffolding every time you want to change a light bulb. Choosing a light fitting that can be accessed from a ladder will make changing bulbs that much easier. Consider also whether you could reach the light from the upper floors if you have galleried landings.
Please ensure you turn off the light and allow the bulbs to cool down before attempting to change any bulbs. If you are safely able to use a ladder to change the bulb, then position the ladder slightly behind the bulb you wish to change and have someone positioned below for extra stability.
If your light will be totally out of reach another option is to consider installing a specialist winch or hoist to avoid having that "Only Fools and Horses" moment. The Lighting Company has a number of chandelier winches on offer and whilst they are not cheap they will enable you to lower your light fittings to the desired level for maintenance to be carried out in total safety. They are compact and can be easily fitted between joists and will fit into a space as shallow as 100mm. The chandelier winches we offer are all operated by a remote control and are available with different cable lengths and carrying capacities. Click the link to view our chandelier winches.
It is possible to purchase telescopic extension poles relatively cheaply which can extend up to around 16', but these are not recommended for removing bayonet cap bulbs on hanging pendant lights.
Here at The Lighting Company we specialise in lights and chandeliers for high ceilings and barn conversions and are always happy to assist customers in selecting suitable lights. If you have any queries please contact us using the 'Contact Us' link
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/contact-us-i3
We have a great selection of lights and chandeliers for high ceilings - just click to view
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/ceiling-lights-c3/lighting-for-barns-high-ceilings-c20
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/ceiling-lights-c3/chandeliers-c18
WHAT SIZE PICTURE LIGHT SHOULD I CHOOSE? With the addition of a picture light you can create an extra focal point and a little added drama and atmosphere to your room as well as giving your picture the attention it deserves. There is little point in having a picture that you cannot see and adding a picture light will bring out the detail and beauty of your picture. Picture lights can also be used to great effect over a mirror or to highlight other special objects in a room. Picture lights are not suitable for using in bathrooms - if you are looking for mirror lights for over a bathroom mirror please select from our bathroom lighting ranges.
Lighting pictures is not an exact science but these general rules may help you make the correct choice. A basic rule of thumb is to position pictures on the wall with the centre at eye level - about 5' from floor level and to position the picture light centrally above the picture. Most picture lights have adjustable heads that can be swivelled to direct the light correctly onto the picture below.
Landscape format pictures - choose a picture light that is 1/2 to 1/3 the size of the picture not including the frame.
Portrait format pictures - select a picture light that is as close to 1/2 the width of the picture as is possible, not including the frame.
If your picture has a really wide frame you may need to choose a slightly different size to ensure the correct balance is maintained.
There are essentially 3 types of picture lights to choose from -
Incandescent - these use standard or conventional bulbs and are usually candle bulbs or the smaller pygmy bulbs (normally found in fridges or cookers). Picture lights with these bulbs give a warmish yellow light.
Halogen - halogen is a brighter, sharper and whiter light and undoubtedly provides the best light for viewing pictures. Halogen bulbs do get quite hot, so you may need to bear this in mind and position them to avoid damaging your picture.
LED - LED bulbs provide an extremely white light. They are cool to the touch and do not give off heat. The main benefit of LED's are that they are very low energy and have minimal running costs.
To view our selection of picture lights just click
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/wall-lights-c15/picture-lights-c46
I AM STRUGGLING TO READ, WHAT IS THE BEST LIGHT TO HAVE? As we get older it can become more difficult to read - we need double the amount of light to read at age 60 than we did when we were 30. Opticians recommend having a good general all round light in the room combined with suitable directional task lighting.
The general light in most rooms is normally provided by overhead ceiling lights. Choose ceiling lights that points down rather than up and with clear shades rather than frosted and use the highest wattage bulbs that the fitting will allow. It is quite a good idea to consider having a dimmer switch fitted as this will allow you to control the level of light - ensure that the fitting and bulbs are suitable for dimming before fitting the dimmer switch.
The directional task or reading light could then be provided by having a floor standing lamp or a table lamp positioned correctly for reading. It is best to choose a light that can be angled. Floor lamps and table lamps are available with flexible swivel heads that can be angled and these are ideal. It is best to position the light slightly behind and above you to avoid the light being reflected back into your face causing glare. If you are right handed position the light behind your left shoulder and if you are left handed behind your right shoulder. The "mother and child" style floor lamps are an ideal choice as a reading light. They provide a good all round level of light combined with a flexible reading arm and most have separate dimming functions. Our reading and craft lights can be viewed by clicking on the following link
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/table-floor-lamps-c5/reading-craft-lights-c38
WHAT IS THE BEST LIGHT FOR READING IN BED? Choosing a light for reading in bed can often be quite a challenge. The main central light in a bedroom will not provide enough brightness for reading and can disturb a partner. Table lamps placed on a bedside table are a good solution. Consider choosing one that has an adjustable swivel head as this will ensure the maximum light is placed where it is needed. A good rule of thumb is that the shade or head should be at eye level when you are sat up in bed - you want the light to shine on the book and not into your eyes. Wall mounted reading lights positioned above the bed are another option and many are available with swivel heads or bendy flexible arms. These wall lights can be angled to avoid disturbing a partner who does not wish to read. Check that any bedside lights can easily be switched off without having to get out of bed.
The Lighting Company's selection of table & floor lamps and reading lights can be viewed by clicking on the following links.
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/table-floor-lamps-c5
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/table-floor-lamps-c5/reading-craft-lights-c38
WHAT SIZE SHADE DO I NEED FOR MY TABLE LAMP? Table lamps come in all shapes and sizes and generally speaking large lamps need large shades and small lamps need small shades. Lamp shades are sized by measuring cross the diameter at the bottom of the shade - so if the shade diameter measures 16" across the bottom, then it is know as a 16" shade. As a very rough guide to working out the size of shade you require, measure the height of your table lamp from the bottom of the base to the top of the lamp stem just below the lamp holder. The shade you select should then have a diameter of plus or minus 2" of this measured height. So, if you have measured the height of your table lamp at 14" then you should choose a lamp shade that is 12", 14" or 16" in diameter.
If you are lucky enough to live near Minehead in Somerset you will be more than welcome to bring your lamp base along to our retail shop and try on as many shades as you wish. This will enable you to select the correct size, style and colour of shade to match your base.
Many table lamps are now supplied complete with shades which takes the guesswork out of selecting the correct shade if you are not confident. The Lighting Company has a great selection of table lamps to choose from and most are supplied with the shades included. Just click on the following links
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/table-floor-lamps-c5/traditional-table-lamps-c14
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/table-floor-lamps-c5/modern-table-lamps-c25
WHAT SIZE SHADE DOES MY FLOOR LAMP NEED? Floor lamps or standard lamps normally require a much larger shade, 18", 20" or 22" in diameter are the usual sizes.
It is also important to make sure the shade sits at the correct height on a floor lamp. As a rule of thumb the bottom of the shade should just cover the lamp holder when looking at eye level. If the shade needs to be raised up this can be done by using a shade carrier. These are inexpensive and available in various heights.
Many of the floor lamps that are available through our on-line store are supplied complete with shades. Our selection of floor lamps or standard lamps can be viewed by clicking
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/table-floor-lamps-c5/traditional-standard-floor-lamps-c12
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/table-floor-lamps-c5/modern-floor-lamps-c6
WHAT ARE INCANDESCENT BULBS? Incandescent bulbs are the traditional, standard or conventional filament bulbs that we all recognise. The main advantage of these bulbs is the colour of light they emit - they give a slightly warmer softer light. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes and with a selection of fittings - Bayonet Cap, Small Bayonet Cap, Edison Screw, Small Edison screw. The Edison screw bulbs are now becoming more widely used in the UK.
Incandescent bulbs are, however, inefficient by modern standards and have a relatively short life (around 1000 hours).
ARE INCANDESCENT BULBS BEING DISCONTINUED? The answer to this one is "YES". The traditional or old fashioned bulbs are being phased out in Britain in advance of the EU legislation. Many of the higher wattage bulbs are no longer available and the plan is to phase out all incandescent bulbs by 2012. They are considered inefficient and are being replaced by low energy fluorescent bulbs which are more cost effective and longer lasting.
Some specialist incandescent bulbs, such as the small bulbs used in cookers and fridges, are exempt from the regulations.
WHAT ARE FLUORESCENT BULBS? Fluorescent bulbs are energy saving or low energy bulbs that contain gases in a tube rather than a filament. Traditional bulbs are being replaced in shops by energy saving bulbs as they save money and cause less harm to the planet. By replacing all the bulbs in an average sized house with energy saving bulbs, the saving would be around £37 a year.
Things have come a long way since the old fashioned fluorescent kitchen strip lights. The new breed of compact fluorescent lamps will only use about 11 watts of power to generate the same light as a standard 60 watt bulb and will last up to eight times longer. Many different shapes and power options are available and more are being introduced to fill the gaps as the standard bulbs are phased out. They now only take a matter of a few seconds to reach full brightness and the prices are coming down as manufacturers are able to produce them more efficiently.
When they were first introduced fluorescent bulbs produced a cold harsh light which was unpopular as it was far removed from the more yellow glow that we were all used to. Technology has improved and now fluorescent bulbs are available in a warmer white (yellower) as well as the standard cool white (bluer).
HOW CAN I TELL HOW BRIGHT FLUORESCENT BULBS ARE? Most compact fluorescent bulbs give the equivalent standard wattage on the packaging. As a general rule of thumb if you multiply the low energy wattage by 4 or 5 this will give you roughly the equivalent standard amount of light you can expect. For instance if you want a compact fluorescent bulb that is equivalent to a standard 100 watt bulb you should be looking for a 20-23 watt fluorescent bulb.
CAN LOW ENERGY BULBS BE DIMMED? Most energy saving bulbs are not compatible with dimmer switches at present and cannot be dimmed. New energy saving bulbs are coming on to the market which can be dimmed. At present they are rather expensive and not readily available, but we expect prices to come down in the next few years as more are manufactured.
WHAT IS A HALOGEN BULB? Halogen bulbs have a filament and contain halogen gas. They give an attractive light which closely resembles sunlight. They can be low voltage or mains voltage. They are more efficient than the old fashioned or standard bulbs as they only use half the energy to produce the same light output and can last up to twice as long. Halogen bulbs are commonly used in car headlights. The 3 main types of halogen bulbs are spotlight bulbs, small capsule bulbs and linear or tube bulbs.
The main advantages of halogen bulbs are that they are smaller in size, they last longer and they give a brighter sharper light. This bright sharp light is a good choice for reading and craft/design work. The disadvantages are that halogen bulbs get hotter than standard bulbs as they operate at higher temperatures and they are more expensive.
IS IT TRUE YOU SHOULD NOT TOUCH HALOGEN CAPSULE BULBS WITH YOUR FINGERS? YES! You should not touch halogen capsule bulbs with your fingers. Halogen bulbs, tubes and capsules are made of quartz, rather than ordinary glass, so they can withstand the higher temperatures. If you touch the bulb with your fingers, the salts and oils from your skin will damage the bulb and cause the heat to concentrate. This can significantly reduce the life of the bulb or even worse cause it to shatter. For this reason most halogen capsule bulbs that you buy will be sealed in plastic inside the box.
To fit a halogen capsule bulb, we recommend using a paper towel to insert the bulb into the light fitting and removing it when the bulb is correctly seated. Should you accidentally touch the bulb you can clean it with methylated spirit.
ARE HALOGEN BULBS BEING PHASED OUT? Halogen bulbs are still considered to be wasteful of energy and expensive to run and many halogen bulbs are being phased out. The target is to phase out all of the inefficient halogen bulbs by 2016. Energy saving halogen bulbs are now coming onto the market and these are a good option if your fitting uses halogen bulbs. The energy saving versions consume around 30% less electricity than the standard versions.
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MAINS AND LOW VOLTAGE HALOGEN?
Low Voltage - the first thing to say is that low voltage does not mean low energy. Low voltage lights operate at 12 volts and this means that a transformer is needed to reduce the voltage from the usual 240v down to 12v. The transformer can either be incorporated into the light fitting itself or fitted separately. The advantages of low voltage over mains are that they are safer and more cost effective to run. The low voltage halogen bulbs last longer than mains halogen ones and are often cheaper to buy. They are up to 20% brighter and for this reason lower wattage bulbs can often be used to achieve the same light output, thus reducing the running costs. The main disadvantage is that they are more expensive to purchase initially if you need a separate transformer.
Mains Voltage - these lights operate at the usual 240 volts direct from the main electricity supply. Mains halogen lights give a good overall spread of light. They are cheaper to buy in the first place and there is less to install and less to go wrong.
CAN I DIM MY HALOGEN LIGHTS? Mains halogen bulbs can be dimmed with any standard dimming system or dimmer switch. We recommended that the dimmer should have a 25% higher wattage rating than the fittings to allow for any increased load which can happen when the bulbs are coming to the end of their life.
It is a little trickier with low voltage halogen as these lights can only be dimmed if you have a dimmable transformer and a compatible dimming device. Most of the low voltage halogen lights on the market with integrated transformers are not suitable for dimming. Your electrician may be able to change the transformer to allow you to dim your light and he can then help you select the correct dimmer. If you have a separate dimmable transformer always make sure you check the compatibility of your fitting with the dimming device and that the dimmer has sufficient capacity to control the load on the circuit. Again if you are in any doubt please consult your electrician.
I LIKE THE IDEA OF RECESSED DOWN LIGHTS - WHAT SHOULD I CONSIDER? Down lights are becoming very popular and when installed in a room can help to create an uncluttered look with a feeling of space. The fitting is largely out of sight as it is hidden in or above the ceiling. The only part on show is the decorative rim with the bulb in the middle. They are especially popular in kitchens and bathrooms as they give a modern sleek appearance to a room. The current trend is to put recessed down lights in other rooms as well - contemporary sitting rooms, bedrooms and hallways all look good with recessed down lights. When selected carefully and in the correct numbers they give an even shadow free light.
They come in many finishes including white, chrome, satin chrome, satin nickel, polished brass, antique brass and satin brass. Usually down lights have a pressed steel or cast aluminium lamp holder with a decorative rim that is held into the ceiling using spring clips or compression clips.
There are 2 basic down lights available- fixed or adjustable.
Fixed down lights - these are the basic down lights which have a fixed centre. The bulb is fixed into the lamp holder and held in place by a spring clip or a twist and lock mechanism. The twist lock mechanism is normally used in higher quality cast aluminium fittings where the front has a removable section that twists and locks holding the bulb in place.
Adjustable down lights - these are constructed in the same way as the fixed down lights but the main difference is that the centre of the fitting can be tilted allowing some adjustment of the spotlight beam. These can be useful of you want to direct the light at an angle towards a kitchen worktop or sink.
Down lights can be expensive to run, so make sure that you know how much power they will use before embarking on putting down lights in every room. Remember it is the watts that count and not the volts.
If you are building a new property or renovating an existing one there will be various rules and regulations that you must comply with. Regulations cover all manner of things from sound insulation (how far sound travels through a down light), draft proofing, fire rating (how long they will prevent a fire spreading to the room above), how much space is needed around and above the fitting in the void or ceiling above, as well as how efficient they are (how much light is produced from the power used). Your local council will be able to advise you on the regulations that apply in your area.
Although it is probably stating the obvious, you will need to cut holes into your ceiling in order to install down lights, so you need to be sure this is the way you want to go. If you decide you do not like them afterwards, you will be left with lots of holes in your ceiling which will be difficult to disguise. To view The Lighting Company recessed ceiling lights just click
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/spot-lights-c21/recessed-ceiling-spots-c22
SHOULD I CHOOSE MAINS OR LOW VOLTAGE RECESSED DOWN LIGHTS? There are a number of different choices here and each has it's own advantages and disadvantages:-
Low Voltage Halogen Down Lights - low voltage down lights run at 12 volts rather than the at the mains voltage of 240 volts. Low voltage bulbs give a crisper whiter light, tend to last longer, are safer and can use a lower wattage for the same light output.
On the down side you will need a transformer to reduce the voltage which adds initially to the cost and is an extra thing that could go wrong. If you choose low voltage down lights, we recommend using one 60 watt dimmable transformer for each 50 watt down light. If a problem does then occur it will be isolated and if a bulb goes you will not shorten the life of the other bulbs if you do not replace it immediately. If you want to dim your down lights ensure that your dimmer is compatible with your transformer.
The 12v spotlight bulbs used in down lights are generally MR16 (or GU5.3) bulbs which have 2 straight pins on the bottom. They are available in many brands, wattages and beam angles. These spotlight bulbs do generate a lot of heat.
The option to replace these bulbs with energy saving ones is a little limited at present.
Mains Voltage Halogen Down Lights - these down lights give a good quality of light and can be dimmed using a standard dimmer. Most mains voltage down lights generally use a GU10 halogen bulb (the twist and lock type with 2 small bolts on the bottom) that is either 35 or 50 watts. They are relatively cheap to buy and easy to install as they do not need transformers.
There are a variety of energy saving GU10 bulbs available. A word of caution here though as it can be a little complicated to find the best one for your down light. Not all low energy GU10 bulbs are equal in terms of size or light output and most are considerably longer and often fatter than a halogen GU10, so may not work with your down lights. Not many of the energy saving GU10 bulbs are capable of being dimmed. Low energy GU10 bulbs are available that are the same size as halogen bulbs and will fit into any light fitting that uses GU10 bulbs. Please take care to select bulbs that will work in your fitting and give you the light output you want.
A recent introduction is the LED GU10 bulbs. These have a number of advantages over halogen GU10 bulbs. They are cool to the touch, very low energy which gives you huge savings on your electricity costs and are very long lasting (over 35000 hours). A good quality 3 watt LED GU10 roughly equates to a 35 watt halogen and a 5 watt LED to a 50 watt halogen. The main drawback at present is the cost as the better quality LED bulbs will cost in excess of £20. Be careful if you find bulbs cheaper than this as they may not give the light output you are expecting. If you want to dim your down lights you will also need to check that the LED bulbs you purchase can be dimmed.
Dedicated Low Energy Down Lights - these down lights are designed and manufactured to use low energy bulbs only. They are energy efficient and a good compromise between price and the amount of light produced. They use compact fluorescent bulbs which provide a good light and a wide beam angle which gives a better spread of light in the room. At the same time they will save you money on running costs. At present the majority of compact fluorescent bulbs cannot be dimmed.
DO MY RECESSED DOWN LIGHTS NEED TO BE FIRE RATED? Most ceilings have a fire rating that is used to calculate the time it can hold back flames from spreading to the upper floor - a normal rating would be 60 minutes. When you cut holes into your ceiling to install down lights you reduce this fire stopping capability and fire can spread between floors though the holes in your ceiling. By installing fire rated down lights you ensure the ceiling remains an effective barrier.
For commercial applications, new builds and rented properties, all down lights must be fire rated when installed into a ceiling with living accommodation above. Most electricians will use fire rated down lights throughout regardless. The minimum fire rating for down lights is generally 30 minutes but 60 or even 90 minutes is a better option. The choice is yours, but we would always recommend using fire rated down lights where there is living accommodation above. Your local council will be able to advise you about the regulations applicable in your area.
Down lights are often manufactured with integral fire hoods which may also have an acoustic rating which is often required for building regulations. Again your local council will be able to advise you. If down lights do not have an integral fire hood, separate fire hoods can be purchased relatively cheaply and these simply fit over the top of the down light.
HOW MUCH CEILING SPACE DO I NEED FOR RECESSED DOWN LIGHTS.? The instructions provided with the down lights that you purchase will usually specify the minimum space needed in the recess above the ceiling in order to be able to fit the lights. As a general rule aim for a minimum of 120mm of space in the recess above to allow for any movement of directional fittings and to accommodate any fire hoods and to ensure ease of installation. Allow for a minimum of 50mm clearance all around in other directions for good ventilation. The insulation should be cut back not pushed back as it will creep back if not cut. If you have low voltage down lights do not cover the transformer.
HOW MANY RECESSED DOWN LIGHTS WILL I NEED? The first thing to say here is that this is largely a matter of personal preference and there are not any hard and fast rules. However we can offer some general guidance that may help you decide how many down lights you will need and where to position them.
As a first step you will need to calculate the amount of light needed in your room. Do this by following the formula in our first question at the top of this page. Once you have done this, you can then calculate the minimum number of down lights that you will need - for example if you have calculated that your room needs 500 watts of light, then you will need a minimum of 10 x 50 watt halogen down lights. As down lights provide directional light only, we would recommend using more than the minimum number. This is particularly important in a kitchen where you will need a good level of light. Also take into consideration any other lights you have in the room - under cabinet lights, table lamps, floor lamps etc. It may also be worth having some of the down lights switched separately so you can create different lighting effects - for example, if you have the down lights over your kitchen work tops on a separate switch to the ones in the centre of the room you can create good task lighting for food preparation and mood lighting at other times. If you are able to dim your down lights this will extend the effects you can achieve.
WHERE SHOULD I POSITION MY RECESSED DOWN LIGHTS? Before deciding where to place your down lights it is important is work out where the ceiling joists run. Once this has been established it will become clear where they can be placed. You are aiming for an even spread of light across the room and as a general guide the down lights should be between 90cms to 180cms apart in all directions. Exactly how far apart will depend on the room in question. Kitchens will need down lights closer together whilst those in hallways and bedrooms can be further apart. Try to keep down lights at least 80cms from a wall otherwise the light will run straight down the wall and show up any imperfections in the wall. If you are placing down lights over kitchen units they may need to be a little closer to the walls as most standard depth kitchen units are 60cms wide. In kitchens and other work areas try to position the down lights to ensure you are not working in a shadow - for example position over or to the side of your sink or desk rather than behind where you will be standing or sitting.
We would recommend that you plan carefully, making sure you are certain exactly where to position the down lights before you start cutting holes in your ceiling.
If you are planning to use LED down lights then you may need to have more down lights and position them closer together to offset the reduction in light output.
CAN I USE RECESSED DOWN LIGHTS IN MY BATHROOM? Recessed downlights are perfect for using in bathrooms. They create a sleek stylish modern look and a crisp bright light which reflects off polished surfaces and tiles. Downlights work well in nearly all bathrooms as well as wet rooms, saunas or steam rooms. If you have a white ceiling you can select white downlights to blend in, or alternatively select chrome or satin chrome to match in with the taps or shower.
Take care when selecting recessed downlights for your bathroom as you will usually need special bathroom rated ones which are designed to offer protection against water penetration. Check out our question above "Do I Need Special Lights in my Bathroom" for further details.
Downlights for a bathroom are not overly expensive and and are especially good for providing light over a shower or bath tub, over a sink or above a mirror or vanity unit or in any alcoves. Bathrooms need a good level of light and normally most bathrooms have only one central light. This is probably acceptable for smaller bathrooms, but if you have a reasonably sized room you could be left with darker areas and downlights could make all the difference. When looking at the lighting for your bathroom consider the lighting levels you will need both during the daytime and at night. It is possible to use only recessed downlights in a bathroom or to mix and match with other styles of bathroom lighting. Using coloured bulbs in some of the downlights can create a lovely atmosphere for that long soak in the bathtub. We have a good selection of bathroom lighting which can be viewed on
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/bathroom-lights-c1
To view more of our Frequently Asked Lighting Questions just click on the link below
http://www.lightingcompany.co.uk/more-frequently-asked-questions-i49
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